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Michael Whiteman remembers the restaurant he helped create atop the Twin Towers

Windows on the World opened 50 years ago, fell 25 years ago. Partner Michael Whiteman's elegy recalls its rise, loss, and lasting influence on dining and city views.

By mitch·6 min read
An elegant restaurant interior with panoramic windows overlooking a city at dusk, recalling the lost Windows on the World.

Two milestones come together this year: 50 years since the opening of Windows on the World at the top of the World Trade Center, and 25 years since the building came down, destroying the restaurant along with it, and claiming the lives of 169 people inside it that morning, among thousands more across the two towers.

This week, the tale of that eatery and its importance to New York resurfaces through Michael Whiteman’s words. He served as the partner of Joe Baum, whose firm gave Windows on the World a new lease on life five years before the 9/11 attacks. Whiteman’s telling works as both a memorial and a lesson in history, arriving at a time when the city marks anew what vanished on that bright Tuesday morning.

Saving The Trade Center’s Reputation

New York was struggling when Windows first appeared on 1976. Whiteman’s account is direct: crime, filth, broken windows, a departing middle class, a Bronx left smoldering, and a treasury grown threadbare. The World Trade Center itself was widely despised. People called it a waste of public money and an architectural monstrosity, dropped upon the ruined Radio Row district in Lower Manhattan.

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“If ever a building complex needed a redemption narrative, it was this one,” Whiteman writes.

Two months after opening, the restaurant had become the most famous eatery in America. By the end of 1976, it had also become the largest-grossing. The embrace from cynical New Yorkers and tourists who were otherwise afraid of the city changed how people felt about the Trade Center. The derision turned into something close to affection.

The payoff has lasted well beyond its launch. Whiteman says building owners watched closely, and developers and restaurateurs have been competing to go higher over the last 25 years. Now diners can eat on the 122nd floor in Dubai, the 118th floor in Hong Kong, and the 120th in Shanghai. Rooftop restaurants and bars are standard at any luxury hotel worth its name. The top floors of offices are now the most sought-after commercial space — not because of who rents them, but because of the stories a developer can tell about them.

58 Seconds That Changed Everything

Ezra Stoller’s photographs from inside Windows on the World form part of the record. Yet the experience went beyond mere scenery. Whiteman describes the elevator ride as a turning point.

It took 58 seconds for people to get to the 107th floor, and by the time they reached the top, they were not the same individuals who had left the ground. The journey was defined by escape, and by the strange clarity that comes from gazing down upon a city one has been living within.

Gael Greene, writing in New York Magazine, noted the exact instant the elevator doors opened. “Everything to hate and fear,” she observed, “was invisible.”

Calling Windows a restaurant sounds old-fashioned now. From the beginning, Whiteman and Baum knew that restoring the Trade Center’s standing had to begin at the top. The restaurant had to be so distinct, so unambiguously magnificent, that it would change how everything beneath it was seen.

Anniversary Year What Happened
50 years 1976 Windows on the World opens
20 years 1996 Reborn Windows opens after 1993 bombing
25 years 2001 Restaurant destroyed in 9/11 attacks
25 years 2026 Current anniversary of the building’s fall

Legends Behind The Menu

The people behind Windows come from some of the most respected names in American food and design. The tale begins in 1971, when James Beard led the menu meetings and tastings. Milton Glaser, known for his I Heart NY logo, handled all the graphics. Warren Platner, the starchitect, created the exuberant brass, glass and soft leather interiors. Barbara Kafka checked every dish. Later, master chef Jacques Pepin cooked all the classic sauces in an underground kitchen while Kevin Zraly put together a wine list with no spending limits.

The meal was not an ordinary outing. The construction cost reached $17 million, roughly $90 million in modern currency. According to Whiteman, that sum was required to endow the World Trade Center with a sense of spirit.

Beyond its size, Windows did something new. Women were put into high-paying, high-visibility jobs during a period when clubs and top restaurants faced lawsuits over sexual discrimination. Cellar in the Sky started fixed-price dinners that included wines matched to each course. The hard-to-say hors d’oeuvreries section launched a mix-and-match array of small plates that later became known as “grazing.”, a term that stuck with it.

The menu itself reflected an early world view of cooking. The dishes shared equal billing: Squab Tabaka with Russian Fruit Compote, Scandinavian Steak Sauté with Raw Egg and Fresh Horseradish, Shrimp Curry with Seven Sambals, Rack of Lamb “James Beard,” Poached Sea Trout al Pesto, and Cote de Boeuf Marchand de Vin. Pesto was barely known at the time.

Bombing, Rebirth, And A Second Opening

Then came the first terrorists. In 1993, they detonated a truck crammed with explosives in the building’s parking garage. The blast severed the restaurant from its below-ground support systems. The New York Port Authority closed Windows and sought competitive proposals from 38 companies around the world to redesign and operate it.

The Joseph Baum & Michael Whiteman Company won that competition.

The second creation of the restaurant was treated not as a simple return to an earlier state, but rather as a fresh start centered on what New York might become. The reborn Windows reopened in 1996, marking exactly 20 years since the original had closed.

At a great height, the city made sense as a whole, complete, nearly lovely. From that lofty vantage, the ceaseless machinery of urban existence turned into something calm and still.

That peace did not last.

What The Second Attack Destroyed

Five years after its arrival, a furious future struck: two enormous airplanes were flown, kamikaze-style, into the World Trade Center, destroying Windows on the World and everything surrounding it.

The destruction is described by Whiteman as a complete loss: the combined effort of many devoted creative individuals and loyal kitchen staff turned into ashes. A vast opening in the earth. A second opening torn closer to the clouds.

This week, New York pauses again to mark what was lost. Whiteman wants people to recall how Windows on the World became a symbol of civic optimism in 1976. It signaled that New York could prevail, even as Washington told the city to “drop dead.”

These shared dates do not rest comfortably side by side, and that very tension is the whole purpose.

A Legacy Written In Skylines

Windows on the World’s influence goes beyond fond memories. That restaurant shaped how we eat today. Rooftop bars, sky-high restaurants, small plates, and wine pairings — all trace back to what Baum and Whiteman created.

Beyond the human cost, Whiteman’s account documents what was lost: a creative achievement, a civic project, and a place where the city could see itself clearly. The Trade Center gained a soul it had never had, and it took $17 million to build.

This year’s anniversaries have brought the story back into focus. It has been fifty years since the opening, and twenty-five years since the fall. Though the restaurant no longer exists, its influence can still be seen in every city skyline where diners eat above the clouds.

The words of Whiteman come from a man who was present, who constructed the restaurant twice, and who saw it vanish. His memorial to Windows on the World serves as a reminder of what New York once was, and what it has become.

One by one, people took an elevator ride through the city’s fear of the Trade Center, until that very fear turned into fondness.

Source: nrn.com

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