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Terry Gilliam’s Vegas Trip Loses Its Way Once Raoul Duke Checks Into the Hotel

Terry Gilliam's Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas (1998) is a cult classic that fails as a film. A review of the Depp and del Toro adaptation.

By mitch·5 min read
Two men sit at a dim hotel desk amid flickering neon light, caught in a haze of exhaustion and dread.

Terry Gilliam’s Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas arrived on May 22, 1998, carrying a tagline that doubles as a warning: “Buy the ticket, take the ride.” Universal Pictures released it. It runs 118 minutes. It is based on Hunter S. Thompson’s novel of the same name, and it stars Johnny Depp as Raoul Duke and Benicio del Toro as Dr. Gonzo. The film was a financial failure and drew polarized reviews. It is a cult classic. That word gets used too easily. Here it is earned, and it is also the problem.

Trailer, via Arrow Video.

Raoul Duke and the Mint 400

The plot is a road trip with a deadline. In 1971, Duke and Gonzo speed across the Mojave Desert in a rented red Chevrolet Impala convertible, a suitcase of drugs between them. Duke, on mescaline, complains of a swarm of giant bats and takes inventory of the stash. They pick up a young hitchhiker and explain the mission: Duke has been assigned by a magazine to cover the Mint 400 motorcycle race in Las Vegas. The hitchhiker flees on foot.

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Trying to reach Vegas before the hitchhiker can go to the police, Gonzo gives Duke part of a sheet of “Sunshine Acid,” then admits there is little chance of arriving before it kicks in. They don’t. By the time they hit the strip, Duke is deep in the trip. He barely survives hotel check-in, hallucinating the clerk as a moray eel and the bar patrons as draconian lizards.

The next day he reaches the race with his photographer, Lacerda, decides they are on a battlefield, fires him, and goes back to the hotel. More mescaline follows, then diethyl ether. At the Bazooko Circus casino, the chaos frightens Gonzo and they leave fast. Duke steps out to play Big Six and returns to find Gonzo, high on LSD, has trashed the room and is sitting clothed in the bathtub, trying to pull the tape player in so he can hear the song better. Gonzo begs Duke to throw the machine into the water when “White Rabbit” peaks. Duke throws a grapefruit at his head instead, runs outside, and locks him in the bathroom.

A Cast That Was Almost Someone Else

The film’s history is a graveyard of near-misses, and the source material lays them out. Jack Nicholson and Marlon Brando were considered for Duke and Gonzo, but both grew too old. Dan Aykroyd and John Belushi were next, until Belushi died. John Malkovich was considered for Duke and aged out. Woody Harrelson came close but was already committed to Palmetto, released the same year.

Thompson met Depp and became convinced no one else could play him. Gilliam has said his films are actor-led, and called the two performances hyper realistic but truthful: “I am interested in real people in bizarre, twisted environments that force them to act… to react against.”

Gonzo is based on Oscar Zeta Acosta, Thompson’s friend, who disappeared sometime in 1974. Thompson made Acosta “Samoan” in the book to deflect suspicion from a man in trouble with the Los Angeles County Bar Association — the “Chicano lawyer” notorious for his party binges. Del Toro gained more than 45 pounds in nine weeks, eating 16 donuts a day, and researched Acosta’s life. Depp moved into the basement of Thompson’s Owl Farm home in spring 1997 and stayed four months, working through the original manuscript, mementos and notebooks from the actual trip.

The Ride Peaks Early

Here is the trouble with Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas. The preparation is the most interesting thing about it. Depp living in a basement for four months is a better story than most of what made it to screen.

Gilliam’s instincts are right — put real people in twisted environments and watch them react — but the film mistakes volume for escalation. The bats, the eel, the lizards, the grapefruit: each is a set piece, and none builds on the last. Duke and Gonzo start at a pitch and hold it. By the Bazooko Circus, when Gonzo is supposed to be frightened, we have no baseline left to measure against.

The novel’s structure gave Thompson room to digress into the wreckage of the 1960s. The film keeps the wreckage and drops the argument. What remains is a 118-minute inventory of symptoms. Del Toro’s transformation is the real performance here — he is physically unrecognizable and completely committed. Depp is doing an impression, and a good one, but an impression is a surface.

What the Cult Status Actually Means

The polarized reception in 1998 was not a misjudgment. It was the correct read. A film can fail financially and still be worth returning to, and this one is, but not for the reasons its defenders usually give. It is not a misunderstood masterpiece. It is a faithful adaptation of a book that was never going to fit inside 118 minutes, made by a director whose visual imagination is stronger than his sense of pace.

The casting graveyard is the tell. Four decades of actors cycled through these roles because Duke and Gonzo are not characters so much as a condition. Whoever plays them is playing an altered state, and an altered state has no arc. That is why the film’s most quoted line is a tagline rather than a scene, and why the drug inventory reads like a props list. The movie’s best asset is its honesty about that. It never pretends the trip is going anywhere.

For anyone coming to this film now, the useful advice is to watch the first 40 minutes and stop. Everything the movie has to say about the trip is in the desert, the bats and the check-in. What follows is repetition with a bigger budget. The cult around Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas protects the book more than the film.

Key facts
– Release date: May 22, 1998
– Distributor: Universal Pictures
– Runtime: 118 minutes
– Director: Terry Gilliam
– Cast: Johnny Depp (Raoul Duke), Benicio del Toro (Dr. Gonzo)
– Rotten Tomatoes: 50%
– Score: 5.0/10

Schedule
| Time | Event |
|—|—|
| 1971 | Duke and Gonzo cross the Mojave |
| Day 1 | Hotel check-in; eel and lizard hallucinations |
| Day 2 | Mint 400; Lacerda fired |
| Day 2, night | Bazooko Circus; Gonzo frightened |
| Later | Room trashed; bathtub; grapefruit |

Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas scores 5.0 of 10.

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