On Saturday, hundreds of thousands of people packed the Champs-Élysées for Pope Leo XIV’s big outdoor Mass in Paris, a sign of the Catholic Church’s lasting appeal in a country that is officially secular but was once deeply Catholic.
The American pope addressed the crowds from his popemobile during a 2-kilometer (1.2-mile) procession down the grand avenue leading to the Place de la Concorde, which sits at the center of Paris and serves as a symbol of the French republic. According to the Vatican, some 700,000 people turned out — more than the 600,000 who had registered ahead of time.
The turnout spoke to the church’s enduring influence in France, even as church attendance has dropped sharply over recent decades and secularizing trends have left churches empty across Europe. The crowd matched other communal moments of celebration that have marked France in recent years, including huge gatherings that filled the Champs-Elysées when France won the soccer World Cup in 1998 and once more in 2018.
Adult baptisms in France have risen by three times their previous level since 2016, reaching 13,000 for this year alone. Still, official numbers and those who study religious trends warn that the increase does not reverse the general decline. In 1980, France recorded 513,000 baptisms; by 2024, the total stood at 186,000.
The festive mood attracted a gathering of people representing many faiths and none at all. The excitement cut across generations. From the crowd, dozens of infants and young children were brought forward so that Leo could bless them by touching their heads as he moved slowly along in the popemobile.
Leontine Joseph, 42, a fervent Catholic who came with two friends of Moroccan origin who grew up in Muslim culture, said the message went well beyond Catholic people. “The message of Pope Leo goes well beyond Catholic people; he speaks about social justice, for example.”
Thierry Chen, a 40-year-old Parisian startup entrepreneur who is not Catholic, came to hear the pope’s message. “People are seeing a lot of really terrible images. This kind of event reminds people of what is really important in life,” he said. “You see a lot of different people here, so it’s not just about one race, religion or nation, but about a common belief in humankind.”
A Birthday Gift in the Crowd
Jean-Claude Farnabe received a trip to Paris as a birthday gift from Leo, since he celebrated his 63 on Saturday and devoted the morning to finding room among the crowds. A lifelong Catholic who regularly attends Mass in the Paris suburb of Suresnes on Sundays, Farnabe has seen a marked increase in faith lately.
The Message From the Popemobile
Leo’s homily urged the gathered crowd to share their faith with others rather than keeping it private. “Let it overflow, so that those you meet may be refreshed and their thirst satisfied,” was the phrase he used to make that point.
He spoke those exact words, “From this beautiful city of Paris, I pray fervently that the living water of the Holy Spirit may flow throughout France,”.
During his four-day visit, Leo has worked to encourage French Catholics to hold fast to their faith “even amid the thorns” in a world that no longer gives it much room. His trip started on Friday with his arrival and prayers at the restored Notre Dame, the first time a pope has visited since the devastating 2019 fire there. From there he moved to Paris, and now he is headed to Lourdes, where he will pray at the Catholic shrine.
The Stadium Vigil That Kept Him Out Late
The numbers and the energy have left Leo impressed, particularly at the Friday night vigil where the 71-year-old pope stayed out until nearly 11 p.m. after a crowded first day.
Some 80,000 young people filled the national stadium north of the French capital for an extravaganza of fireworks and a theatrical retelling of French Catholic history. “Thank you for your courage! Thank you for your presence,” Leo told the crowd, speaking off the cuff in French. “Thank you for your faith. You are the saints of France!” he said to raucous cheers.
A New Chapter for Place de la Concorde
The golden cross atop the huge stage and the vast ranks of choir singers, clergy and others who prayed beneath the pope’s watchful eye at Place de la Concorde signalled a fresh era for the historic square.
This square was built at the close of the 18th century and served as an execution ground during the French Revolution. There, Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette met their ends by the guillotine. Today, the square stands as a symbol of the Republic to many French people, who mark Bastille Day in its streets. During the 2024 Olympics, the square took on a fresh feel when it hosted break dance, skateboard, BMX and 3X3 basketball contests.
The people running the Mass explained that the square was the single spot in central Paris with enough room for a gathering that size.
Staunch defenders of France’s strict form of secularism in public life criticized the choice, pointing to a 1905 law separating church and state as the basis for their complaint. Their argument held that the site stands for the Republic itself, and they maintained that other locations, including the Invalides, a complex of buildings where Pope Benedict XVI celebrated Mass in front of 240,000 people in 2008, would have been far more fitting.
Sylvane Le Goff, 68, who lives in the Paris region, came with her 10- and 12-year-old grandchildren to “give them unforgettable memories.” Le Goff, who was raised Catholic but is not practicing, said she wanted to open her grandchildren’s minds. “It’s not only about seeing the pope but it also is about his message of peace and unity, values I’d like to share with them,” she said.
Key Facts
- 700,000 people showed up for the Mass, more than the 600,000 who registered
- 13,000 adult baptisms in France this year, triple the 2016 figure
- 513,000 baptisms in 1980 vs. 186,000 in 2024
- 80,000 young people at the Friday stadium vigil
- 240,000 people at Benedict XVI’s Mass at Invalides in 2008
“Let it overflow, so that those you meet may be refreshed and their thirst satisfied.”
The homily from Leo brought the spirit of the day to life. The living water of the Holy Spirit was called upon for France itself.
Source material: “Pope Leo XIV fills central Paris with 700,000-strong crowd and fervor at giant outdoor Mass,” ABC7 Los Angeles.
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